solved Based on the plans you created week 2 and 3,

Based on the plans you created week 2 and 3, you will do the following work for the kitchen and the bath. You should have a well- dimensioned plan as per NKBA specifications. Make sure your plan has the elevation markers.
You will redraft your plan and add cabinet designations.-numbers. ***You can just add the selected cabinet numbers to your existing plans,  but you need to make any corrections in cabinet sizes in drafting as needed. If your bath cabinets are free-standing vanity types, they will not be drafted or numbered as manufactured cabinets but would listed or specified as a selected product. Only if you are ordering manufactured, built-in cabinets from the cabinet company would the bath cabinets be drafted as such.
ADD specification symbols, (circled numbers), to the revised plan. Note in the NKBA video on plans that to the right side is a Legend of Specifications. Circled numbers represent selections. These can be appliances and fixtures and interior selections as trash cans and plate holders in drawers. This is how we know what cabinet accessories are where. Add this to your revised kitchen plan as you make the selections from the Woodmark catalogue.
You will be adding all numbers for cabinet selections to the kitchen elevations. Draft all 4 walls and an island, even if some walls do not have cabinets. Islands are a series of base cabinet boxes.
Based on the cabinet specification catalogue you have been given a link to, you will select the boxes of the appropriate size and label the plan with the appropriate size box as per the NKBA example. We will use the Woodmark catalogue. The Woodmark catalogue specifications link is in your week 5 module .
Then you will draft elevations for each wall in your kitchen as shown in the link describing how to do elevations per NKBA. You will dimension the boxes as indicated the video from Youtube.
So- there will be a plan with cabinet numbers and elevations for all elevations including the island elevations if you have an island. Make sure all labels and scales and names are included.
Materials-
You will select a wood, (this catalogue only gives you a few choices as Maple, painted, and their engineered product.  You usually have a variety of wood choices and maybe an engineered product.( P. 37.)
The boxes are typically particle board, but ply as an upgrade is often offered.  Few offer solid wood boxes, as they warp and can cost a lot more.
Note that modern cabinet doors are flat and called slab doors. Slab doors are typically a manufactured wood so that they do not warp. Panel doors are typically wood for the stiles and rails and plywood for the panel. The panel actually floats in the frame or stiles and rails so that it does not warp but can allow movement. On older cabinets, particularly painted ones, you see the cracking along the panel joint where the panel has moved a little in its frame.
You will select a door style and a finish- front part of catalogue. (They are not offering a lot of finishes in this catalogue, but that is fine. 
Basic Cabinet information:
Framed vs frameless
You will note that this product is a framed cabinet. This line apparently does not offer a frameless, European style box.  Some companies do not make both products. Usually this is so that they factory can keep costs down. 
A frameless cabinet has a thicker back to hold it together, and the door must cover the whole front.  Frameless cabinets also allow drawers to be a bit bigger. This looks more modern.
A framed cabinet is typically more traditional, though it can look contemporary. The front frame holds the box together, but the box still will have a thinner back. The frame takes up some drawer width. Here you have a choice of door overlays. See p. 48 in the catalogue for explanation and image.
Pricing basics
You will find that the more options a company offers, the more expensive the product will be.
Cabinets are prices basically on 2 factors, how many options are offered and the actual quality of the materials and work. Most reasonably priced cabinet lines can often offer a nice product if they offer limited options.  This allows more of the product to be prefabricated and ready to ship. The most expensive lines may be all custom or offer that option. Custom work from a cabinet manufacturer just costs a lot more.
Different cabinets and price-lines come with different standard features, including drawer types.  Many lines offer upgrades.
If you have cabinets “job-built” (built at the site), or built by the contractor’s trim carpenter and brought to the site, you can often get a nice product with custom details and sizes. Doors are typically made in the shop. As the associated designer, you would want to see previous work and make sure the work met all requirements and standards appropriate for the price. You would also need to make sure the painter could paint or stain the finished cabinets to your satisfaction. You would need to get a stain sample from the painter. There are a few more unknowns unless you have worked with the carpenter and painter often. This is a common practice in many areas and not so much in others. The factory finishes may be heat set and may be more acid resistant. It is a matter of preference, sometimes cost, sometimes desired customization, sometimes availability as to which you and your client choose. 
Sizes- basically:
Cabinets standardly come in 3” increments, starting with 9” cabinets.
Non-custom cabinet companies use fillers, or narrow panels to fill in left over spaces.
You may need to specify panels in areas as at the sides of the ref. or double ovens. These take up several inches. 
Remember you need to find out from your client what specific needs they have. It may be an extra-large pasta sauce pan or extra-large plates.
The catalogue gives  clear diagrams with sizes indicating what cabinets come in what sizes and what options are offered.
Watch the short, short link to the video on plans provided this week to review the sizing conventions. Base cabinets start with “B”, and give width, depth is 24 unless specified and height is assumed at 34 and ¼ or equaling app 36”.
The upper cabinets are called “Wall cabinets” and start with W. they you have the width and height. W3021 is wall, 30”w, 21” high. X24 would be added if the depth were an un-standard 24” as over the ref. (See pages 80 in catalogue for dimensioning basics).
Go through the catalogue and get a feeling for the product specifications before doing the project.
I have selected this cabinet catalogue because it is available on line and fairly thorough in images and product information.
The companies that sell through more public companies as Home Depot seem to provide the most available information. So we will use the Woodmark products from their catalogue. Again, this selection is a matter of convenience and availability.
The following list of pages note major items or information you will want to read through and possibly use in your kitchen. There are brief explanations and pages to consult. Please carefully review the information until you understand it. This way you can consult and reference the pages as needed.  Their catalogue has an index to help.
Pages to note for specific information.
Go through these cabinet specs and make sure you see, understand  what they are telling you>
p. 35- their specs
p. 37- wood species and other manufactured cabinet body choices. Note explanation of Duraform.
p. 48- what overlay options are available for framed cabinets. Determines look and how much stile and rail or frame shows.
p. 50-51- construction options and legend.
p.54- void or dummy cabinet fronts or faces (as in front of sink)
p. 57- toe kick- you need to specify where the toe kick is as some sides do not need it. This might happen at the end of a run or on the sides of an island.
p. 58- custom closings- as soft close.  Some clients do not want it and it does cost more usually unless that is indicated as included.
p. 67- glass or openings in cabinets. Choices of openings.
p. 73- how to read wall cabinets
width, height depth.  
20” wide, 12”high is 2012.    “W” is for wall.    W2012      the depth will be indicated if it differs from standard.
Note flip up doors, wine racks, corner wall cabinets.
105- vent hoods- note there are vent hood liners, the actual vent inset that functions, and the wooden, decorative vent hood cover.  If you purchase a separate, non -matching vent hood, it is a different story.  This is for vent hood covers that match the cabinets, for traditional designs mostly.
P.111- Base cabinets, “B” indicates base
Height assumed 34-1/2 so not noted unless different., depth assumed 24”  so gives door type as Butt for 2 doors.  ( B12 -Butt would be base cabinet, 12” wide, 2 doors butted)
p. 113 accessories as insets, trash baskets…
119- sink and cooktop/stove cabinets
133- Base corner cabinets
The catalog also offers tall kitchen cabinets and various other options.